Past and present of Peplum's decorative skirt this season

Leading Word: Peplum is a skirt-like pleat decorated at the lumbosacral region. Its role is to emphasize the female body curve, making the waist thinner and the hips fuller. Peplum's peak period was in the 40s and 50s of the last century. It lighted the barren hours of Paris wartime and was carried forward by American housewives after the war.

1950s girl wearing a peplum blouse

The word Peplum is now in the red, and the heat will continue all the way to the 2012 autumn and winter. From the designers on stage T to the actresses who are in front of the camera, their popularity and praise gradually become rampant. It sounds strange, but in fact it has been in fashion style maps for a long time.

"Have you heard of New Look?" About the 1950s, the novelist Nancy Mitford wrote in her book, "You put your hips up and your waistline is thin. This style is worn by Pidgeon. No.” In 1947, when Christian Dior's first “New Look” series reshaped the female “X” profile, peplum was already in the middle waist position. In fact, it is simply a piece of excess fabric that has been added to the lumbosacral region, either pleated or offset.

"Superfluous" is the essence of peplum, and it hardly practices any functionality. It is purely decorative. And what is this "excess"?

The extra is so beautiful

It is easy for people to agree that “there is not too much time to pass”. In the peak period of the first trend of peplum—in the 1950’s and 50’s, excess was a good thing. Janine Pons, Paris's first-generation fashion house model from 1948 to 1950, agrees.

Janine was once a Parisian designer Jacques Fath's fashion model, used to seeing Fath's generous materials - the pleats on the straight skirt, the wavy sides of the dress skirts, the peplum suits, the bulging waists, the excess fabrics for Fath The design of clothing adds dynamic, but the reality of Paris is the shortage of goods. The fabrics had been supplied for distribution since 1941, and most of the leather was taken as military shoes during the German occupation. The situation of scarcity of materials has not been able to improve for a while. The simple post-war life style is also reflected in people's dress.

In 1946, when Janine left Paris for the first time to go to the United States to work for Lancome, she could not even buy double stockings and her shoes were only doubled. In this case, it is too extravagant to extravagantly decorate a garment that does not have practical functions. However, the Parisians at that time seemed to be using this deliberately extravagant way to show their stance. The war could not defeat the pride of Paris. The fashion houses have used fabrics to highlight this point.

It is true that downsizing curves and dressing like men are the new aesthetic trends in wartime. Coco Chanel had closed the fashion salon on Kang Peng Street in World War II, allowing the seamstresses to change their army to sew gloves. Women are no longer worried about their beauty. They are neutral, and they must be determined like men from outside to inside. And out of the family, as an operator, typist to fill the home of a woman, but my heart still has a bleak expectation.

It was the beauty of peplum that lightened the barren time. The surplus is abundance, and excess fat that is accumulated in the right place means that food and clothing are safe and well-maintained. Women are curvy, and this aesthetic tone has been around for a long time. Even as far back as the ancient Greek period, women citizens who walked on squares began to wear peplum, which just rightly concealed the uncomfortable joints between the top and bottom, while still reflecting the plump curves.

Jacques Fath's success lies in understanding the psychological needs of women. His design of peplum suit highlights changes in waist-hip curves. He especially likes brilliant colors. Suits often have irregular collars, and chilling and realistic worlds sing. Counter-regulation. Christian Dior strongly denied that his 1947 "Corolla" series was influenced by Fath. However, Fath's irregular collar, skirt peplum decoration and "Corolla" series, "BarJacket" seemed so conceited.

At this point, peplum almost became a feminine decoration of a neutral suit, extending into the hem of the jacket and distinguishing the woman wearing the suit from the man. However, its existence is not so simple. Balenciaga made an evening gown in 1959. Peplum was installed outside the silkworm-shaped blouse and formed a double-skirt skirt with a pencil skirt. With a pair of elbow-gloves, it was also very stylish.

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